🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.